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Why Bother Composting?

Composting performs two functions. It turns nuisance-causing waste products into an easily handled material, and it creates a valuable soil conditioner.

Backyard composting does take time and effort. You cannot simply pile material behind the barn and expect to have compost several weeks later. A successful backyard composting set-up deserves commitment and knowledge. And knowledge is gained by practicing.

Composting is the aerobic, or oxygen-requiring, decomposition of organic materials by microorganisms under controlled conditions.

During composting, the microorganisms consume oxygen while feeding on organic matter. Active composting generates considerable heat and large quantities of carbon dioxide and water vapor are released into the air.

Compost Bin Basics

Bin, Heap or Trench? All Work!

Bin

• More attractive
• Use vertical space better
• More organized

• Size ... approximately 3 X 3 to 5 X 5 ft.
• Near water source
• Convenient site to house or garden
• Sun or shade
• Space to turn
• 2 feet from building

Pit

Inexpensive and a passive way to compost: Make it underground in a pit.

• In autumn dig the hole 2 feet deep, 3 feet long and place rocks or cement blocks around the outer edges, leaving one side open
• Place a wooden lid on top. Your Built-in pit is now ready for composting.
• Fill with materials, scatter a thin layer of soil or green matter over it. (about 4 inches deep)
• Mix pile together and place wooden lid on top. The materials should decompose and turn into a rich compost by the following October.

Pile

Inexpensive concept to composting requires some care:

• Composting can be done with or without support like fencing.
• Piles formed without walls generally take longer to decompose and need more space, but are just as effective as composting in a bin.
• Building a pile so that it will break down takes some mixing or layering of materials containing carbon and nitrogen.

Here is a good recipe:

• First layer - 3 to 4 inches of chopped brush or coarse material like straw on top of the soil surface to allow for air circulation around the base of the pile.

Some kitchen waste
is OK for composting:
coffee grounds,
egg shells, fruit rinds,
tea bags, and
vegetable scraps.

Do not add meat, fish,
dairy products or fat

• Brown layer - 6 to 8 inches of brown leaves, dried plant material, sawdust, straw, etc. If dry, add enough water to moisten.
• Optional soil layer - 1-inch layer of soil or good compost will settle the brown layer down, add moisture and increase the number of microorganisms in the heap.
• Green layer - 2 to 3 inches of green plant material like grass
  clippings, tops of weeds, vegetable greens, etc. These materials add nitrogen to stimulate microbial activity.
• Continue layering - Follow the green layer with a brown layer and optional soil layer until the pile is as high as it will support itself or until the bin is full.

With the help of Solid and Hazardous Waste Education Center (SHWEC) University of Wisconsin U.S. Department of Agriculture and Wisconsin Counties through direct links we can provide information to help you build your own compost bins.