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Composting performs two functions. It turns nuisance-causing waste products into an easily handled material, and it creates a valuable soil conditioner.
Backyard composting does take time and effort. You cannot simply pile material behind the barn and expect to have compost several weeks later. A successful backyard composting set-up deserves commitment and knowledge. And knowledge is gained by practicing.
Composting is the aerobic, or oxygen-requiring, decomposition of organic materials by microorganisms under controlled conditions.
During composting, the microorganisms consume oxygen while feeding on organic matter. Active composting generates considerable heat and large quantities of carbon dioxide and water vapor are released into the air.
COMPOST BIN BASICS
Bin, Heap or Trench?
Both Work!
Bins are:
- more attractive
- use vertical space better
- more organized
Bins should:
- Size ... approximately 3 X 3 to 5 X 5 ft.
- Near water source
- Convenient site to house or garden
- Sun or shade
- Space to turn
- 2 feet from building
Inexpensive and a passive way to compost: Built-in pit
Make it underground in a pit. In autumn dig the hole 2 feet deep, 3 feet long and place rocks or cement blocks around the outer edges, leaving one side open: place a wooden lid on top. Your Built-in pit is now ready for composting. Fill with materials, scatter a thin layer of soil or green matter over it. (about 4 inches deep) mix pile together and place wooden lid on top. The materials should decompose and turn into a rich compost by the following October.
Inexpensive concept to composting requires some care: The Pile
Composting can be done with or without support like fencing.
Piles formed without walls generally take longer to decompose and need more space, but are just as effective as composting in a bin.
Building a pile so that it will break down takes some mixing or layering of materials containing carbon and nitrogen.
Here is a good recipe:
- First layer
3 to 4 inches of chopped brush or coarse material like straw
on top of the soil surface to allow for air circulation around
the base of the pile.
- Brown layer
6 to 8 inches of brown leaves, dried plant material, sawdust, straw, etc.
If dry, add enough water to moisten.
- Optional soil layer
1-inch layer of soil or good compost will settle
the brown layer down, add moisture and increase
the number of microorganisms in the heap.
- Green layer
2 to 3 inches of green plant material like grass
clippings, tops of weeds, vegetable greens, etc.
These materials add nitrogen to stimulate
microbial activity.
- Continue layering
Follow the green layer with a brown layer and
optional soil layer until the pile is as high as it
will support itself or until the bin is full.
Some kitchen waste is OK for composting: coffee grounds, egg shells,
fruit rinds, tea bags, and vegetable scraps.
Do not add meat, fish, dairy products or fat.
With the help of Solid and Hazardous Waste Education Center (SHWEC)
University of Wisconsin U.S. Department of Agriculture and Wisconsin Counties through direct links we can provide information to help you build your own compost bins.
Instructions - Begin Building
 Low impact Wire Mesh Compost Bin (pdf)
 Least expensive Wooden Pallet Compost Bin (pdf)
 Least labor intensive Can Composter (pdf)
 A wood and wire bin is portable Wood and Wire Compost Bin (pdf)
 Block bins; durable and requires few tools Concrete-Block Compost Bin(s) (pdf)
 Sturdy system with large capacity Wood 3-Bin Compost Unit (pdf)
 Rotating barrel units do not need layering just turned every two to four days compost is ready in 2 to 3 weeks. Barrel Composter (pdf)
more on composting...
Just remember...........
When in doubt.........turn it about
ENVIRO CARE OF AMERICA
2008 Landfill COMPOST PRICE - $ 30.00 per 3 cubic yard bucket load
(There is a two bucket limit per visit.)
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